Berlin 8-Day Itinerary for the Solo Traveller
What’s worth it and what’s not.
I visited Berlin for the first time October 8-16, 2023. Here are my suggestions on what to do in this eclectic city. Of course, use your own judgment and interests to determine what is worth it for you. Prices may change with time. Always check official websites for the most current information.
Berlin is a very walkable city in the sense that you trek a certain amount of time and can actually get to a number of places, whereas in Toronto, where I’m from, you could walk half an hour and still be in the same residential neighbourhood. During my week in Berlin, I walked as much as I could. It’s a great way to see the city as a solo traveller.
I organized my days into “clusters” of activities depending on distance and purpose, which you can see in the graphic below.
Read on for more details about some of these activities/locations and whether or not they’re worth it.
Festival of Lights
I just missed Oktoberfest, but I made it in time for the 19th annual Festival of Lights! This was one of my top to-do’s in Berlin because of my occasional work as a lighting designer.
The Festival commissions designs for various notable buildings around the city, but most of them are centered in and around Museum Island and Alexanderplatz. It’s more of a projections show than lighting design, per se.
The Festival runs for over a week, and the first night I was in Berlin, I was lucky to encounter two girls in my hostel room who were planning to check it out too. We explored on foot and later had dinner together.
The event reminded me of Nuit Blanche, an all-night-long arts festival, though the Festival of Lights is more specific and only runs until about 11 PM each night.
2023’s theme was “Colours of Life,” and the main presentation was a projection on Branderburg Gate of digital art inspired by 4 different countries.
It was crowded, but because we went on a Sunday, it was manageable. Go on a weekday, and the crowds will surprise you.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Brandenburg Gate / Museum Island
Because the main Festival of Lights projection was set on Brandenburg Gate, I got to check off two attractions in one go. Therefore, my first impression of the Gate was also pretty unique compared to its daytime look.
Around the area, you’ll find many, many tourist shops. The Berlin Bear is popular in many storefronts. Maybe it’s a cute play on words: Bear-lin. Get it?
On further research, the bear “is the heraldic animal of Berlin, featured on both the coat of arms and flag of Berlin.” The grand prize for the Berlin International Film Festival is also the Golden Bear (Golden Bear - Wikipedia).
If you’re not a fan of touristy destinations, you might want to spend less time in Alexanderplatz (which the locals call “Alex”). However, the surrounding Museum Island is absolutely gorgeous, and you can get free entry to many of them with a Berlin Welcome Card. I’m not much of a museum person, so I found it enough to just walk by and admire the architecture.
Cost: Free (admission fees for some museums).
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Checkpoint Charlie & Museum
Who goes to Berlin and doesn’t check out Checkpoint Charlie, right? It’s the historic crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Well. Turns out the guy in the photo isn’t even Charlie. His name is Jeff Harper, and he was a tuba player for the army. He never stood guard at the checkpoint. You can read more about it here: This real soldier's photo is still hanging at Checkpoint Charlie | We Are The Mighty.
“Charlie” comes from the letter “C,” based off of the NATO phonetic alphabet. So more accurately, the place is actually “Checkpoint ‘C’” (Checkpoint Charlie - History and Facts | History Hit).
There are people underneath the Charlie sign who collect a fee for taking your photo with the attraction. It’s also a major tourist hotspot, and I actually got swindled right across the street… Just be aware.
Nearby is the Checkpoint Charlie Museum. It houses a collection of artifacts from the escapes of various people to West Berlin. Captivity does, indeed, fuel creativity, both literally and figuratively.
Cost: Free (€13.13 for the Museum with a Basic Welcome Card)
Worth it? Yes and no. If you’re into a lot of history and museums, then, yes, check it out. If not, I don’t feel like it’s a must-do. You’ll probably pass by it on the way to something else without having to make a dedicated pit stop. This whole area is very touristy now.
Disgusting Food Museum
I saw this in the Welcome Card booklet and on Google Maps when I was researching Berlin. I thought perhaps it’s a Berlin specialty venue, but it’s actually Swedish-found with multiple locations. I asked the young girl at the front why it was founded, and she said, “I think the creator had an existential crisis one day…”
It wasn’t anywhere near as disgusting (visually) as I thought it’d be. For example, one exhibit featured Twinkies. For its nutritional value, it’s certainly disgusting, but it doesn’t gross you out in any other way.
There’s a section near the doors for you to whiff and/or taste some nasty-seeming things… I chose not to. Beside that is a chalkboard you can write your name on to ascertain you were here and had been disgusted. :P
Cost: Adults €16 (discounts available with a Welcome Card)
Worth it? No. It’s fun, but for the cost-benefit analysis, spend your money somewhere else.
World Balloon
Sadly, I didn’t get to go on the World Balloon the entire time in Berlin due to windy conditions. The World Balloon (Berlin Hi Flyer) only flies if the weather is adequate, so you have to check their website each day for any changes.
Cost: €15-70
Worth it? Yes. I love being in the air, so I imagine I’d really enjoy this one.
Topography of Terror
This one’s long. Be prepared to devote a half day’s time to it.
The Topography of Terror is a museum a brisk walk away from Checkpoint Charlie, and its free audio tour is a deep dive into history. You can also your own headphones or earbuds.
There’s also a cafe and library inside the museum if you need to relax or continue researching. I’d say this one’s less of an attraction and more of a lesson. It’s a must-do for history fanatics and general passersby alike.
The material covers some disturbing stories, so be warned it’s not a walk in the park.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes.
Potsdamer Platz
You can walk to Potsdamer Platz from the Topography of Terror. It’s a large plaza home to many high-rise buildings, offices, and the Mall of Berlin. It has a similar look to the Financial District of Toronto.
I didn’t get a chance to explore this plaza very well, but I’m sure there are hidden treasures to be found next time.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes.
Mall of Berlin
Maybe I’m just jaded to the architecture of Toronto malls (I used to work in one for five years), but the Mall of Berlin in Potsdamer Platz astounded me. Its architecture and design pulls from traditional European details combined with that oh-so-modern sleekness, and the result is a pretty grand building for all things retail. The mall is also split into two by an open-air skywalk, perhaps a clever East-West reference.
I took dinner in the food court, which was also nicely decorated for its worth.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Holocaust Memorial
Ten minutes away from the Mall of Berlin is the Holocaust Memorial (specifically, “Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe”). It was already dark when I went, so I didn’t spend too much time there. There are staircases that lead deep underground to some archival records, I heard, though I didn’t know it at the time and thought I’d be trespassing.
All in all, it’s a quiet place and probably sees more people during the day.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Rosenthaler Platz
Rosenthaler Platz is one of those bougie, upscale neighbourhoods. You can tell just from walking by that the apartments cost at least 1200 EUR/month. It’s also close to Hackescher Market, another pricey shopping area.
It’s a nice place to go out for drinks with friends, and the Circus Hostel is conveniently located right next to the U Rosenthaler Platz station.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes.
TV Tower
The Berlin TV Tower was crowded with tourists. It’s simple enough to buy a ticket at the door, and once you’re on the viewing platform, you can see all across Berlin. I learned from the boat cruise tour guide that locals affectionately call it the “Asparagus.”
If you’re looking for something novel, though, the TV Tower might not cut it. It’s not much different from any other radio tower, and once you’ve been up one, you’ve been up them all. I’ve visited the CN Tower in Toronto and now the Berlin TV Tower, and I don’t feel like I need to ever do this again unless it provides a really standout aerial view.
Cost: €19.10 with a Basic Welcome Card
Worth it? No.
Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus
This is a bookstore! I asked a friend what the book culture is like in Berlin, and he pointed me to Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus near Alexanderplatz. It’s a HUGE building with 3 or 4 floors and a cafe in the back. Having worked at a similar store for many years, I can justifiably say this is that store of Berlin, though its scale would have our CEO rolling in their sleep.
There’s also an English-only section.
One funny thing did happen here. I asked the info desk where the washroom was, and he had no idea what I was talking about. I spit out all the variations of “washroom” I knew: bathroom, restroom, WC … until, finally, he shouted, “Ah! The toilet!”
So, just know that in Europe, everybody refers to the washroom as the “toilet.”
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes.
Charlottenburg Palace & Gardens
Charlottenburg Palace will also take up a hefty chunk of time. The Palace itself isn’t so big; it’s just very wide from the front but not deep. The rest of that space is for the Charlottenburg Gardens.
You can walk through the rooms yourself or take a headset for the audio tour (if you’re paying this much anyway, I suggest listening to the audio tour; it’s very informative).
There’s also a complimentary coat check.
There are several rooms within the Palace that really impressed me, such as the Porcelain Cabinet and the Palace Chapel. Don’t forget to explore the second floor!
Once you’re done inside, you can take your coat and head around the back to the Gardens. Everything is beautifully landscaped and pruned and very, very symmetrical.
At the far end is a pond with some swans swimming on its surface. It’s a peaceful place to sit in the sun for a while before continuing your explorations. Along the edges of the Gardens are some woods you can jog through. The Gardens are publicly accessible at any time.
Cost: Free for the Gardens; €14.25 for the Palace with a Basic Welcome Card.
Worth it? Yes.
Kurfürstendamm Shopping Street
If you’re looking for mid- to upscale shopping, look no further. Kurfürstendamm is one of the busiest and most popular shopping streets in Berlin. Take advantage of that VAT refund if you’re visiting from outside Europe!
The VAT refund is basically a tax refund you can get on material goods if you’re a visitor to the EU. Ask the cashier for a form to fill out — bring your passport with you — to present at the airport or train station when you leave later. Not every store participates in the VAT refund. The ones that do are supposed to clearly display a sign, but some sellers like to hide these or tuck it in the back, so ask just in case. I’ve also run into several young salespeople who didn’t even know what the refund was. Not uncommon — EU locals don’t get the VAT refunds, so of course they don’t have use for it. Things that aren’t applicable for the refund include services (eg. massages) and food. The bought items should be ready to be presented when you leave the country. You can find out more about VAT refunds here: Guide to VAT refund for visitors to the EU - European Commission (europa.eu).
I found window shopping really fun here because there were many brands I’d never seen before, even if they’re mainstream for Berliners. Control yourself if you’re a shopaholic; it’s pricey!
You can also get a free Christmas ornament from Käthe Wohlfahrt if you show the ad in the Welcome Card booklet.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes.
Reichstag/Käfer
A lesser-known trick for getting into the Reichstag parliament building if there are no time slots left is to book a table at Käfer, their rooftop bistro. That’s what I did. I made a reservation for afternoon apéro (light snacks) and got to see the rest of the publicly accessible spaces afterward.
It’ll cost you, yes, and now I can say the snacks were fine, but I wouldn’t do it again just to see the view from the top. There was also a rude couple that cut in front of me when the hostess came back — and she actually took them first! — so I wasn’t super pleased with the service. The wait staff were lovely.
If you do manage to book a Reichstag time slot, then it’s free. I preferred the view from the Reichstag than the TV Tower, even though it’s not as high. There’s much more room to move around, and you’re not enclosed by windows, so you can feel that nice, sunny breeze on your face.
Security check is very strict. It’s like going through the airport. Be sure to arrive half an hour early to pass through all this.
Cost: Reichstag — free; Käfer — costs whatever you order.
Worth it? Yes and no. Skip the TV Tower and aim for that free Reichstag slot. Plan this at least a couple weeks in advance!
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Sunset River Boat Cruise
I’m a sucker for anything on a boat, so I bought a day-end ticket to glide along the Spree River as the sun set. The temperature was just right. I barely made it in time, as I was rushing from my Reichstag visit and went to the wrong boat at first. There are several moored at the dock, so it’s wise to arrive early and figure out which one is yours.
Tourist river cruises are … well, touristy. You’ve got your guide announcing all the big landmarks along the riverbank. This boat had a mini bar, and they brought your drinks to your table. The guide also took photographs of each party. If you kept them, it’s €5.
All in all, not a bad experience, but it’s pretty standard.
Cost: Varies depending on the operator; average €15-20.
Worth it? Yes and no. Depends if you like the water enough to spend money on this.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin
Ah, the library on Museum Island. I’m a huge bookworm, so of course I sought out the local library. I think libraries are so interesting in their architectural differences from place to place. They really are museums in their own right.
Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin is huge. You enter a small courtyard garden before the building itself, and the first floor has a cafe, closet safes, and study areas. You’re expected to put your belongings in a safe before you enter the actual library on the second floor; security’s watching. I was excited to learn I could get my own library card with my passport. Not that I borrowed anything or would come back in my few remaining days, but the idea of having my own card already if I decided to move to Berlin intrigued me.
I went up to one lady at reception first, and as soon as I spoke, she blurted, “Mein Englisch ist Scheiße.” You don’t have to know German to understand what that means. She pointed me to her colleague, and from there I filled out a form and chose a design for my card.
The library was so quiet inside, I was afraid of even stepping; they take it seriously. Books line all four walls in a square, and the centre is for study desks and work. There are also private cubicles behind the book walls you have to reserve. The books take up several floors.
Back on the first floor, there are several branch rooms for specific niches such as music, coworking, etc.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Berlin Wall Memorial
The Berlin Wall Memorial was more low-key than I thought it’d be, and it took me a while to figure out where it started and ended. You get a much better aerial view of it from the top of the Documentation Center across the street.
Cost: Free.
Worth it? Yes, if you’re interested in more history. If you’ve already been to other sections of the wall and are low on time, I think you can skip this.
Bikini Berlin
Bikini Berlin is a mall with more of an industrial look compared to the Mall of Berlin. It has a cool range of shops and food, and when I chanced upon it, there was a Tastes of the World event going on. Yum!
It’s also unique in that you can partially see the Berlin Zoo from some windows or on top of the building Overall, it’s your standard mall, and if you’ve already been shopping or visited another mall, you probably don’t need to see this one.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes and no.
The Clubs
Yes, yes, yes! If you ever go to Berlin, clubbing (what the Berliners affectionately call “dancing”) is a must-do at least once in your life. If you’re travelling solo, try to group up with people; it’ll be safer. Check out my articles below about my three different experiences dancing in Berlin:
Dancing at Kater Blau: My First Time Clubbing in Berlin
Party at Body Language: My Second Time Clubbing in Berlin
The Berghain Experience: How I Got In My First Time to Berlin
Cost: 15-30 EUR (entrance fee only)
Worth it? Yes!
East Side Gallery + Mall + Riverside
The East Side Gallery is a length of the old Berlin Wall that’s been converted into a graffiti art strip. There’s a large green space on one side and the sights and sounds of a city on the other.
At the end of the Gallery, you’ll reach a stretch of the Spree River, and on a sunny day, it’s an extremely pleasant place to take a walk by. Fun fact: The Shipotel (formerly the Eastern & Western Comfort Hotelboat) is docked by this riverside. It’s a hostel that books up fast, so if you’re interested in staying here, reserve at least three months in advance!
The East Side Mall is also a nice place to hang out, though it’s pretty standard in terms of retail. The Mercedes-Benz Arena is right beside it, so expect a lot of traffic on event nights.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything).
Worth it? Yes.
Below photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Markthalle Neun
Markthalle Neun is a cool food market located in Kreuzberg. With a variety of local vendors for sweets, meats, and veggies, it’s every foodie’s delight. It reminds me very much of St. Lawrence Market in Downtown Toronto.
Plus, we had dinner at the adjoining Marktlokal restaurant, and it was amazing.
Cost: Free (if you don’t buy anything)
Worth it? Yes.
Tips & Tricks
Where to do laundry:
Waschsalon is a chain of automated laundromats that provides washers, dryers, and detergent for an average price of 7 EUR or so, depending on how much laundry you have. It’s pricier than other options, but I found it very clean and easy to use, even as someone who’s never used a laundromat before. You pay first at the touchscreen inside. If you’re alone, make sure to eat or hang out nearby (or stay there the whole time if you want), so you can make it back to get your clothes. You don’t want to risk someone taking it out for you because they need the machine.
Is the Berlin Welcome Card worth it?
Yes … and no. Check out all the discounts and partners the Welcome Card offers online first. If you know you’ll enjoy attractions like the Disgusting Food Museum, and you’re planning on doing a LOT of those, then get the Card. If you’re with a large group, the Card might also work out financially. But, if you’d rather take the time to explore without the stress of making your Card worth it, I think you’re better off without it. I bought the most basic 10 EUR Welcome Card with fewer attractions included, and I still wouldn’t purchase it again as a solo traveller. You’ll save more money and time by paying for a single full-price ticket for the activities you really want to do than squeezing in as many as possible to get those minimal discounts.
How do I get around with public transportation?
The BVG app is very helpful. You can buy any fare you need from it, and it’ll give you electronic receipts for all of them (though you have to go into Settings to turn this on). You can still buy fare tickets from the yellow vending machines at stations, but if you’re in a hurry or want the ease of activating your timed ticket at the right moment, the BVG app is the way to go.
Berlin/Germany in other seasons:
I’ve heard so much about German Christmas markets that I have to go back during the holiday season to see them for myself. Like any city, Berlin has a rotating schedule of annual and individual events, and it’s definitely worth visiting in different seasons to see what’s on. For example, this summer I’ll be attending the b12 Festival for Contemporary Dance and Performance Art for professional dancers.
It helps to have a planning session with a friend who’s been there before. My own advice is to get to know the city from the inside out. Less attractions, more living.
You’ll meet many interesting people in Berlin, each of them with their own reasons for being there. Apparently the recreational dance scene is huge, and I’ve heard a lot about Berlin’s grand swimming pools and spas like Vabali. So, take the time to relax, take a dance class or two, and let Berlin surprise you.