Shopping & Dining in Positano on a Budget
Plus where to stay, what to do, and how to wash your clothes.
Photo by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
Anyone who’s been to Positano knows it is EXPENSIVE. There’s not a lot of room for thrifting or penny-pinching, but with the right knowledge, you can still shop and dine in Positano on a budget. The trick? Live like a local.
Here are my tips and tricks to navigating this Hollywood destination as a solo, budget traveler.
*All photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World unless otherwise stated.
Accommodation
There’s no shortage of hotels and Airbnbs, but the only hostel in Positano is Hostel Brikette. Like any other accommodation for budget travelers, Hostel Brikette offers a (more) affordable stay in the village than the traditional hotels. It’s still not cheap, but for 300.40 EUR including taxes for 4 nights compared to the 1000+ EUR it would’ve cost me elsewhere, it was a gold mine.
The hostel itself is quite beautiful. It’s located high up in the village, so the view in the mornings from the balcony or patio is stunning. There are also dorms with no private balcony available for a cheaper price, but I say since you’re in Positano anyway, shell out the extra bit for a dorm with one. The privacy combined with the view of the sea is worth it when the common patio gets too social.
For a complete review of this hostel, check out my article here.
Tip: Book direct for free breakfast and a glass of wine each night!
Hostel Brikette
Food
The Budget Option
Your best bet for budget food in Positano is the local minimarkets (a mix between convenience and grocery stores). Alimentari Di Giovanni De Lucia, the corner shop a few minutes’ walk from Hostel Brikette, is excellent for cheap sandwiches made in-house. You pick your bread and ingredients just like at Subway. They’re LARGE portions, too! Non Solo Frutta di Luisa Russo is another minimarket even closer to the hostel that also sells fresh food and vegetables. These are great places to pack a snack before you tackle the Path of the Gods, or if you’re just feeling peckish.
The More Expensive Options
Speaking of portions, I tried some of the restaurants in downtown Positano, and while the food was tasty, the portion sizes couldn’t live up to the price point (not that I needed larger portions; Positano is just overly priced in everything).
I was, however, pleasantly surprised with the food I did order. Casa e Bottega had a great matcha latte. The chicken cutlets were nice but not outstanding. The interior decor was super cute.
Misaki Sushi’s mochi and baozi tasted amazing, but the price was so high I actually could not order more. You also have to pay for the water here, which comes in a wine glass-like bottle. I originally sat down to eat (dining in will incur an automatic service fee), but because I still had to pick up my laundry, I changed to take-out. The waitress packed up my water and food for me in a paper bag, and the bag unfortunately ripped on my way back, the bottle shattering into a million pieces by the side of the road. Thankfully, I still had my evening complimentary drink at the hostel, so I comforted my sad soul with some red wine.
(Do you see a trend here? I went all the way to the Italian coast to eat matcha, mochi, and baozi.)
Several gelato shops and cafés dot the village, though they are also price-heavy and catered to tourists.
The Compromise
For both affordability and quality (plus major convenience if you’re staying at Hostel Brikette; it’s right across the road), go for Ristorante C'Era Una Volta. They have hearty portions of pasta, chicken, and pizza for (more) reasonable prices. I ended up ordering here three times in my 4 nights in Positano. The last 2 times, I took my food back to the hostel to eat on my balcony, and that was an experience, chilling by the moonlight.
(And did I mention the free breakfast and evening drink if you book direct with Hostel Brikette?!)
Tip: If you have the spare money, treat yourself to a dessert and fine dining at least once in Positano, but otherwise stick to the minimarkets.
Laundry
Laundry was confusing. There aren’t any obvious signs anywhere directing you where to wash your clothes, and Hostel Brikette doesn’t offer washers/dryers. Even on Google Maps, laundry services only showed up when I typed “lavanderia.”
First I walked uphill from Hostel Brikette to Lavanderia Elisa Di Luigi Ercolano, which boasts excellent reviews on Google and allegedly offers drop-off services as well. Unfortunately, despite its hours online, the lavanderia was closed when I got there. Why? I don’t know. It’s a pattern I’ve learned is common in Italy — that you won’t know whether a store’s open or not until you go there.
Instead, I found L'Arcobaleno Di Ruggiero Giuseppina & C. Sas downhill, near Hotel Villa Franca Positano. Again, their Google hours don’t match their actual hours. I managed to squeeze myself in around 6 PM, and they closed at 7 (though they remained open for the last-minute customers still waiting for their clothes to dry). You don’t have to wait around; the attendants will take care of the washing and drying. It’ll take about an hour and a half (around 6 EUR each for a wash and dry).
Tip: The Google Map location is a bit off for L’Arcobaleno. The true coordinates are 40°37'42.5"N 14°29'02.9"E. Look for the rainbow overhead sign.
Tip: Go at least an hour before closing to ensure you get your clothes back the same day.
Image provided by Unsplash.
Shopping
I have never in my life seen linen shirts cost 100 EUR. I couldn’t tell you whether the quality or make are really worth it or not, but for the price point, the designs and styles across the board are very uniform. To be honest, I’m not a fan. They looked like items I could buy for a fraction of the cost from Taobao. I don’t for a second believe this is actually “Positano style.”
Be mindful that you can also find the same product for different prices at different stores. My friend bought a pair of Havaianas sandals from one store that cost markedly less in another. Uptick is real.
The Budget Options (relative to other stores)
I did find one impressive clothing store: Antica Sartoria by Giacomo Cinque, tucked away on a less populated street on Via del Saracino. I was immediately attracted to a denim jacket with handsewn seashells embroidered all over it and lace flower details. I expected this to cost at least 150 EUR, but it was only around 90! The designs of the dresses and accessories are so much more unique than the lemons and frills of the rest of the stores. All their merchandise is significantly cheaper. Although, Antica Sartoria itself is not unique to Positano; it has branches all over Italy. Maybe that’s why it doesn’t conform.
Sapori E Profumi Di Positano sells cute lemon-themed limoncello, handbags, perfume, and candles ranging from 5 EUR to I-can’t-afford-this. The small items are great for souvenirs and gifts.
The More Expensive Options
Italian Fine Art Gallery is definitely not budget-friendly for most people, but I mention it because I was stunned by Italian artist Annalù’s butterfly resinglass structures, marketed at 20,000+ EUR apiece + another 20,000 EUR for overseas shipping — one day, you know…. See her official website here. Positano has a LOT of fine art galleries. What can I say? They know their audience.
There’s also Boutique Francesca Positano, which offers colourful fluffy tutus — always a plus in my book!
Tip: Although I did end up buying that jacket from Antica Sartoria, it turns out a body of seashells is not the most comfortable thing to wear in tight corners (ahem, planes). Plus, it shrunk in the wash, which I should’ve been more careful about. I guess my warning for you is, you’ll see a lot of bright, shiny things in Positano, but at the end of the day, the photos and memories will be worth a lot more. Save your money when you can.
The Beaches
Positano Spiaggia is the obvious choice of beaches because it’s front and centre. It’s also dirty, crowded, and noisy. Seriously. The amount of trash left behind by tourists is concerning.
If you want a quieter, more secretive place, my Flytographer photographer showed me how to get to Fornillo Spiaggia. Just follow the rail guarded path along the bluff from the Positano Ferry Terminal, and you’ll reach the beach in 10 minutes’ time.
Positano Spiaggia
Entertainment & Activities
My friends and I came upon an event called Positano 500 by accident one day. I think one of the staff could tell we were hungry by the way we stared at their cake for too long. He invited us to come and have a slice (or two, or three) and some Presecco for free. It was a jolly time, we took some selfies, and by the end of it, we still had no clue what we were celebrating. Maybe a vintage car show. That was some nice cake, though!
Some other girls from the hostel went to Music by the Rocks, a club by the beach. If you’re feeling up to it, go, but it probably won’t be cheap if you intend on ordering anything (and you’ve got to figure out how to make your way back at night).
Sadly, I didn’t have the energy to hike the Path of the Gods (I was sick) this time, but definitely go if you can. It’s free, and the views are supposed to be BREATHTAKING. Bring your hiking boots and lots of water, and use the toilet beforehand. The path is a long one.
Transportation
You can get to Positano from neighbouring towns like Salerno and Sorrento by bus, ferry, or car. Unfortunately, Positano is not directly accessible by train. Renting a car or taxiing will obviously cost the most, but it’s the most direct way of dropping you off at your accommodation.
There’s a Sita bus stop right in front of Bar Internazionale, next to Alimentari Di Giovanni De Lucia, convenient if you’re staying at Hostel Brikette. You can buy bus and luggage tickets inside (2.40 EUR for your ticket and 1.50 EUR for your large luggage) or at any tabacchi (tobacco shop) in the area. Trek further down the village to find a taxi area/parking lot. You can also arrange your own Daytrip carpool, though I had an iffy experience with them on the way there.
One route is to buy a ferry ticket to/from Salerno, a neighbouring village. There are connections there from Stazione Salerno train station to Naples, Sorrento, or any other available destination. Ferry tickets cost around 10 EUR one way, depending on where you’re going. You may also have to pay a large luggage fee.
If coming/going from Sorrento, the subway line can take you all the way to/from Napoli Centrale Station for only 4 EUR (!!!). I’ve heard a lot of people prefer to stay in Sorrento overnight because it’s so convenient to take day trips to the surrounding towns instead.
Also, a refurbished airport in Salerno is coming soon!
Tip: Stick to public transport if you’re on a budget. Buy your bus and luggage tickets in advance because stores can sometimes run out!
Bonus — The Public Toilet
There’s a public toilet located downstairs near the beach. As travellers know, you may have to pay a fee for toilet use in Europe. However, when I went, there wasn’t anyone overseeing them, so I got to use the toilet for free. This is penny-pinching at its extreme. I wonder if it’s ever attended to because those toilets were not the most hygienic. After all, the toilet fees are meant to tip the cleaners… If you have the odd coin, it doesn’t hurt to leave one for them anyway.
Bonus — The Pharmacy
In need of some last-minute cough drops or medicine? POSITANO PHARMACY’s got you covered. Located in a central downtown location, they’re pretty reliably open each day, and I’m happy to say the cost of basic OTC medications there is a steal compared to the rest of Positano. Rest assured you’ll be able to get what you need if you’re in a pinch.
Photo by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.