24 Hours in Lisbon: Portugal Solo Travel (aka. How I Almost Missed My Flight Home)
Lesson learned: compression socks are the way to go.
Photo by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.
I visited Lisbon, Portugal, from October 24-25, 2023.
Lisbon was a doozy. After my rage fiasco in Italy right before arriving, I thought I could finally unwind and relax for a day. Who knew that things would only get more chaotic from there.
But first, let’s give myself some grace and acknowledge that I inadvertently did a massively cool thing. In booking my return flight home, I chose the cheapest option, which included a 24-hour stopover in Lisbon, Portugal. This was the perfect opportunity to stay a night in the city, and I eagerly scrolled through Hostelworld for the best in hostels Lisbon had to offer.
What’s the difference between a layover and a stopover?
A layover is less than 24 hours.
A stopover is 24 hours and beyond.
I decided on Lisbon Destination Hostel for its central location and high ratings. Since my stopover was part of my ticket, the airline took care of my luggage for me, and I packed only the essentials for one night’s sleep.
I’d been in Portugal recently in the summer for a dance retreat, but I was literally in-and-out, and the only bit of Lisbon I’d seen was the airport. I was determined this time to explore the actual city.
Thus begins the story of how I almost missed my flight home.
Using stopovers is a common trick to pack mini-vacations into larger vacations for a cheap price that travel enthusiasts know and love, provided you can handle the multiple flights energy-wise. Many airlines offer free stopovers with hotel stays and/or meals. Check each airline’s official website for details.
*All photos by Lonely Girl, Lonely World unless otherwise stated.
Lisbon Destination Hostel: A Review
Lisbon Destination Hostel is a very cool lodge with a stellar Hostelworld rating of 9.5/10! It’s situated on the second floor of Rossio Train Station, right in the heart of Lisbon. You can’t get any closer to transport, shopping, and food. They also have a sister hostel called Sunset Destination Hostel (9.1/10) closer to the beach.
This, and Palmers Lodge Swiss Cottage in London, UK, are the only two hostels I’ve really felt at home at so far. Granted, I only stayed at Lisbon Destination for one night in a private room, but I was impressed with what I saw.
Their main atrium is decorated with greenery, fairy lights, wall art, and an abundance of sofas and couches. The rooms are spread along the perimeter over two floors, similar to China’s si’he’yuan (open-air courtyard residences). The sky-high ceiling offers a flooding of natural light in the daytime.
Take a look at my private room! Isn’t it cute?! As soon as I saw the manga wall art, I knew this place was after my heart. My floor-to-ceiling window looked out onto the atrium. Plus, I had a TV with free Netflix hung by the foot of the bed, and after my exhausting day, I fully indulged in eating dinner under the covers with The Fairly Oddparents on.
The only downside is that my private room didn’t have an en suite bathroom, and none of the shared toilets in the hostel were particularly fresh-smelling. Still, it was a small price to pay.
The next morning I deposited 8 EUR for their standard continental breakfast, which did not disappoint.
What pleasantly surprised me is that Lisbon Destination is really a hostel for everyone. I saw a family of 4 (with 2 very small children) checking out, and there were a number of older travellers too. Some hostels have a reputation for being a “party hostel” or only cater to youth; Lisbon Destination is not one of those. They do have a separated bar, though, in case you’re wondering.
Another pleasant surprise: you can’t hear the noise of the train station AT ALL. Talk about good soundproofing. I arrived very late at night, so the station was almost empty at the time. When I left the next day, I opened the door to hundreds of passengers flocking to their platforms. Inside the hostel, I heard NOTHING.
When I asked if I could stay for a while after checking out, the desk attendant said, “Of course. This is your home until whenever you leave.” Indeed, it was a pretty sweet home.
Tip: Check both Hostelworld and their official website before booking. Sometimes you’ll find room deals exclusively through one or the other. I booked the last private room available through Hostelworld, even though their website didn’t offer it.
Shopping & Lunch
I’d been good about not spending too much money on the road, but I felt I deserved to treat myself on the last leg of my trip. Which … is when things started to get out of hand.
I thoroughly enjoyed walking along Lisbon’s famous shopping streets. The stores benefit from modern interiors and historical exteriors.
Along Rue Garrett and Rue do Carmo, I spotted mass market international brands like Zara, H&M, and Mango alongside the world’s oldest bookstore, Livraria Bertrand, founded in 1732. For a bookworm like me, this was a massive bucket list checkoff. I also passed:
Luvaria Ulisses, a tiny high-end leather glove-making shop made even tinier by the crowds.
Tous “Ourivesaria Aliança,” a gorgeous jewelry store that would cost me an arm and a leg to shop at.
United Colors of Benetton (think Urban Outfitters in North America), where I bought a pair of corduroy pants.
Kokonut Pink, a concept store for, well, everything pink! Plus, their standout feature is the custom swimwear tailoring, where you get to choose all the details from the fabric to the design.
I randomly had lunch at Tapas n’ Friends Rossio in the middle of my shopping. I ordered a saucy edamame appetizer with a drink, and it was satisfying enough, though I think I limited their potential with my budget.
Back on Praça dos Restauradores, I entered Falconeri, a cashmere shop, and this was when time started to fall away from me. I bought myself a wonderfully soft A-grade cashmere sweater for $400+ (I know, I know…), thinking I’d have time to get my VAT refund at the airport.
I conveniently forgot about airport security and gate boarding times, so I thought I had all the time in the world with just an hour before my flight took off. The cashier was shocked at how nonchalant I seemed about it (and she was right to be).
Tip: Look out for uncommon spots to take cool pictures. The best view I got of Lisbon was surprisingly from the mall toilet!
My Frantic Run Through the Airport
1 hour before takeoff — Once I finished my purchase, I scurried to the metro station, dread settling in as I realized I’d also forgotten about the 10-minute underground walk through the station to the actual platform. The ride itself would take another 30 minutes. Thankfully, they had a stop right outside the airport.
30 minutes before takeoff — I finally rushed through the main gates of Lisbon Airport and proceeded to waste another few minutes by following a roundabout path to security.
20 minutes before takeoff — Why is everyone so slow at security?! It’s not that hard to take your jacket off beforehand and dunk your items in the bin. Boom! Done.
5 minutes before takeoff — I ran through the airport in my poorly chosen travel shoes to my gate, which happened to be the second-furthest one from security (of course). The PA system called for Toronto passengers to head immediately to the gate. Halfway, a worker in a neon vest announced, “Last call for Toronto!”
She saw me hurrying and asked, “Toronto???”
“Yes!!!” I said.
“You have to RUN!”
“Ok!!!” I screamed back, running.
Finally, FINALLY, I made it to the gate, and I breathlessly gave my passport to the agent. Thankfully, I wasn’t the only holdup, but my gosh, I was glad to have made it. Turns out I had to take a shuttle bus to the actual plane location, and if I missed that, welp — I could kiss my $400+ nonrefundable ticket goodbye.
I scrambled down a flight of stairs to the shuttle bus and tried to catch my breath as we waited a couple extra minutes for more latecomers. I was sweating profusely.
On the plane and upon landing after my 9-hr flight, my legs were ACHING. This is why people tell you to stretch before and after a workout. Hectic cardio with no downtime right before sitting in a cramped space for hours is not a recipe for success.
Image provided by Unsplash.
Lessons Learned
Enough with nonrefundable tickets!
Your trip’s not over until it’s over. Always be at the airport at least 2-3 hours in advance for international flights.
COMPRESSION SOCKS, COMPRESSION SOCKS, COMPRESSION SOCKS!!!
As soon as I got home, I bought myself a pair of Jobst medical-grade compression socks, 15-20 mmHg. On my next big solo trip to the UK and Finland, I tried them out onboard. WOW. The feeling you get when you walk off that plane is totally different. I could feel a pep in my step. No wonder flight attendants go all out for these. (They’re apparently also good for preventing varicose veins, especially if you’re in the air a lot.)
And the nonrefundable tickets, yikes. There are times you can get away with these, but for the most part, I’d be hesitant about booking nonrefundable ever again. So much can happen before/during travelling; it’s always good to be able to get your money back.
For now, I say go to your nearest pharmacy and get those compression socks. You can thank me later.
Photo by Lonely Girl, Lonely World.